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From a
travel diary entry from May 4, 2004 from Stockholm, Sweden
Departing from Heathrow airport for
Stockholm airport and all seemed a bit strange with rising at 5:00
am and dawn already breaking. Scrabbling through the previous
day's work load, I didn't pack till 11:00 pm the night before.
Arriving in Stockholm mid-day, from an uneventful flight we took
the fast train into the city from the airport and a cab to our
long time friend and Ehrman/ Rowan distributor for Sweden, Eva
Wincent, who has a new apartment in the city centre.
We dropped our bags and trotted out to walk the city. Both Kaffe
and I had forgotten what an amazingly beautiful city it is. It has
the feeling of a large town rather than a sprawling city, with the
buildings right up to the water's edge like toasty biscuits - all
having interesting roof lines and painted warm tones of ocher &
yellow. There are easy walking streets, some cobbled, broken up by
the tram lines buzzing between the old and new architecture. Old
galleon ships are moored up alongside mock Viking ships and other
wooden vessels that are either privately owned or turned into
restaurants and bars. Because of the warm toast-earthy colours of
the buildings with little or no high contrast painted around the
window ledges, there is a radiating, comfortable feeling around the
city as if the buildings were lined with old beaten leather and
worn velvet. Many of the roof lines have the magnificent details
of turrets and towers of copper-lined paneling, giving them a high
green-blue finish.
Eva, being the ultimate host, knew what might interest us so we
hopped on a ferry across to the old part of town being caught up
with what seemed like the morning rush hour's lunch break. We ate
well in a sun drenched courtyard restaurant. The service staff
were a delicious reminder of how all Swedish folk switch from
their native language to English at the wink of an eye - making us
feel that little bit more welcome.
That evening we headed out to Stenenge Slott to meet up with our
host Linn Stokke, owner and art director of this beautiful
exhibition space and historic landmark. Based outside of Stockholm
near the airport, this is the second time Kaffe has shown at
Stenenge Slott - the first time was in 2000. The exhibition is
held in an extremely long, stone barn space, which Kaffe is
sharing with Norwegian abstract painters. This time Kaffe has
chosen to display patchwork quilts from his books and some that he
has hand sewn and quilted himself - not exhibited before. New
paintings and his ceramics create a different mood from the
exhibition at the Rooska Museet (Design Museum) in Goteborg, which
closed earlier in the year. What's always thrilling is to see how
other people choose to display his work, and Kaffe was excited to
see how dynamic all his pieces looked against the strong, high
coloured backgrounds, as you'll see in some of the pictures.
3000 invites where sent out for the opening. It seemed to be the
first day of Swedish summer so the crowds poured in to the
exhibition and then onto the lawns of the property to take
advantage of the splendid grounds.
Linn graciously invited us to stay at their residence on the
property with the bedroom doors opening onto uninterrupted views
pouring over a lake as far as the eye could see, with the only
sounds that of the birds.
Our patchwork workshop had been cancelled, allowing us a day free
to run around. So on Sunday morning Eva, Kaffe and I rose early to
head out for a ferry boat called Cinderella - taking us two and a
half hours through the Alchapelo waters to one of the furthest
islands from Stockholm before the open sea. Kaffe and Eva
stitching away on needlepoint cushion samples amusing onlookers.
One daring lady inquired if the needlepoint was by Kaffe Fassett -
Eva explaining that Kaffe was sitting next to her - much to
everyone's amusement. Kaffe's name is all over Scandinavia as it
means coffee there.
Sitting at the back of the boat, we skimmed at high speed through
the flat, mirrored waters and passed through narrow waterways
where all the Swedish folk have dreams of having their summer
homes. The islands look like huge, smooth elephant backs. Pine
trees manage to hold on and flourish in any craves. All the wooden
houses with their distinct Scandinavian character are isolated and
tranquil. Our final stop was an island collared by small wooden
houses all lined with picket fences, nestled together with
entwined sandy walk ways ... no room for cars. After leaving the
houses we were soon drifting through a beautiful pine forest
leading us to a deserted pebble beach where we sat for an hour
letting all the worries of the world pass by...tiny ripples
lapping at the water's edge under the warm basking sun.
We ate at a typical restaurant at the harbor's edge. We ate beets
with goat cheese with rocket salad followed by a crayfish mousse
on a crouton, local beer followed by stewed rhubarb and
strawberries with a typical sponge biscuit. Taking a different
ferry back, I felt like I'd had a two week vacation in this one
glorious, endless day.
- Brandon
Some pictures from Kaffe's Gallery Steninge
Showing. Click on the picture to see it larger.
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